Removing Stuck Jaws From a Bench Vise

Like everyone else, I get a few vises with the screws either smashed or the wrong screw hammered into the jaw screw pockets. Here is a quick way to remove screws if you have a TIG welder. Removing jaws with TIG (1)Coming up with a way to hold the screw so you can use two hands for welding is the trick.  If you can get comfortable, then you have a better chance of welding the screw head and not the jaw.  I like to use magnets to align the bolt.  It is hard to tell by my picture, but I like using these small 1/4 diameter super magnets.

Removing Screws (3)Some jaws are a little harder to remove.  This small #825 Wilton (2-1/2 jaw width) gave me fits.  The jaws have been on the vise for many years and were ground smooth to the casting. The 10:32 screws were tough to weld around, but I got lucky.  Removing Screws (6)I used a magnifier inmy hood and saw the tack welding of a #6 screw to the head of a #10 screw.

 

 

 

 

Once I removed the screw, then I had to weld a slide hammer to the jaw and pull it from the Static and Dynamic jaw support.

Removing Screws (17)

The alignment dowel pin is suppose to be a press fit to the jaw, but over the years the dowel sometimes rusts into the jaw support casting.  I welded right to the jaw with my slide hammer, then after the weld cooled, I hammered it off.

Removing Screws (19)    Having access to a welder, the TIG has more control and a more accurate method of adding filler rod, but a good wire welder can  have success too.  Good luck.

4 thoughts on “Removing Stuck Jaws From a Bench Vise

  1. I NEED SOME INFORMATION ABOUT WILTON BULLET VISES,I HAVE A WILTON 800 BULLET VISE WITH 3 INCH JAWS AND RECIEVED A EMAIL THAT WHICH STATED THAT ONLY 2 INCH JAWS QUALIFY FOR BABY BACK STATUS. THE NUMBERS ON THE VISE ARE 101014 AND 15.

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